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| Mistake Proof FoundationBy Olivia Neko
We wondered, is there really such
a thing as mistake-proof foundation? And if so, how can we possibly
know which foundation is going to be the right one for us? It turns out
it's not the product alone that counts. As iVillage makeup artist
Deborah Grayson outlines below, it's your skin and how you apply the
product. To make your foundation mistake-proof, follow these four basic
steps:
Prep your skin
"Foundation will only lie
as smooth and even as the skin underneath," says Grayson, so in order
for your foundation to be mistake-proof, skin must be prepped and
polished to its best advantage. That means regular moisturizing, gentle
exfoliating to roll off any dead skin, and even a professional facial
once in a while!
Use the right shade
Foundation
color must be as exact a match as is humanly possible. Not a tad
lighter or darker. "For checking foundation color, daylight is best,
and a slightly overcast day is ideal — that's because too much sunlight
just blows out your color, and artificial light makes it impossible to
gauge true color," says Grayson. So a makeup boutique with large
windows is best. "If your local makeup haunt doesn't offer good light,
don't be embarrassed to bring your own mirror with you to the store,"
she says. "Try on a few variations of color and march outside into
natural light to check the color. When and only when it disappears
against your skin, it's perfect," insists Grayson. Also remember:
-For beige skin, a foundation with yellow undertones will be best.
-For brown skin, peachy-orange undertones are for you.
Use the right consistency
It's
paramount that the consistency of your foundation completely honors
your individual skin texture, says Grayson. For example, if you have
dry skin, use a moisturizing foundation like Shiseido Hydro-Liquid
Foundation. If you're oily, use a matte foundation with oil-blotting
properties, such as M.A.C. Full Coverage Foundation. If you want to
camouflage fine lines, use a sheer formula — Grayson recommends Make Up
For Ever Face and Body Makeup (at Sephora.com). And if you want to
cover scars or burns, you'll need a creamy, highly pigmented concealing
foundation like Kryolan Derma Color Camouflage Cream (800-767-7068).
Apply it right
There are basically three modes of application: fingertips, a sponge (moist or dry) and a foundation brush.
-A dry sponge will work with powder foundations; it will absorb the excess and give a nice smooth coverage.
-A moist sponge is great for creamy foundations, when you want to diffuse the color a bit.
-A foundation brush is good for specific areas such as the chin or the sides of the nose.
-Fingertips (as long as they're clean!) will work with liquid, cream or gel formulas, but not with powders.
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| Eyebrow Makeover for SpringThe most underrated element of a beautiful makeup look
is the eyebrows. Celebrity makeup artist Darrell Redleaf says the
shape, including where your brow arches, where it's wide and where it's
thin, is the key. Here's how to give yourself an eyebrow makeover.
Look
at the inside corner of your eye, where it's closest to your nose. Pick
up a pencil, a makeup brush or a ruler ‑- anything long, straight and
slender. From the inside corner of your eye, follow a line straight up.
If you've got an eyeliner or eyebrow pencil, mark where the line
crosses your eyebrow. Do the same from the inner corner of your other
eye.
If you have hair inside the two marks, you are close
to a unibrow situation. Pluck all that hair out, but don't overpluck.
If your eyebrows don't reach the marks above the inner corners of your
eyes, then you need to fill those parts in.
Take your
pencil, makeup brush or ruler and hold it against the outer corner of
one of your nostrils. Hold it at an angle so that it crosses the bottom
outer corner of your iris. (Not the eye itself, but the outer edge of
your iris when you're looking straight ahead.) Follow the line upward
until it crosses your eyebrow. That's where your eyebrow arch needs to
be at its highest ‑- that's the peak of the arch. To create an arch
where there is none, gently pluck hairs from the brow bone. Always
pluck from the bottom and not the top (with the exception of removing
strays from the top of the brow). The arch should start coming down
immediately after this peak.
Taking the pencil, makeup brush
or ruler to your nose again, line it up at the outer edge of the
nostril and let the line go to the edge of the eye and continue up
until it crosses the brow area. That's where your brow should end.
Redleaf's
rule of thumb for eyebrows is to use taupe eye shadow to fill in any
sparse areas and give an arch a natural-looking emphasis. Even very
light-skinned blondes should use taupe, he says, because you want to
define the brow, not wash it out. to Redheads, or anyone with a reddish
tone in the skin, should choose a taupe or neutral color with a little
amber in it, and dark-skinned people should try some brown shades until
they get the right one. If all of this sounds like too much work, get
your brows shaped first by an expert. After that, it's easy for you to
just follow the shape the stylist has given you. | | |
| Why Everyone Loves Mineral MakeupBy Eileen Suttin
A "new" makeup discovery that's been around for 30 years
is taking the cosmetics, fashion and film industries by storm. Mineral
makeup is the latest addition to an emerging beauty culture dedicated
to better living. Unlike traditional products, mineral makeup, which is
based on a hypoallergenic loose powder that naturally nourishes the
skin, contains no perfumes, talc, alcohol, dyes, mineral oil or
preservatives. Not surprisingly, dermatologists are pleased.
We
asked two mineral makeup producers — Diane Ranger, who created
Colorescience, and Dianne York-Goldman of the La Jolla Spa MD, who
created DYG Mineral Makeup — why makeup artists say it's the best kind
of makeup for your skin.
-Good for sensitive skin. "Lots of
women struggle with acne, allergies, dryness and clogged pores from
unfriendly commercial makeup," Ranger says. "Mineral makeup lets you
enhance skin care with positive beauty choices, not create more
problems."
-Doesn't feel like a mask. For some women,
traditional makeup, often heavier, can feel like a mask. Mineral
makeup's texture is lighter and different. Even with more coverage,
experts say you'll see a natural, translucent radiance and more of your
skin, which can breathe.
-Contains ingredients that are good
for skin. "For women who can't get to a spa, triple-milled minerals
like titanium, gold, zinc, magnesium and aluminum naturally relax,
refresh and rejuvenate the skin, and offer a genuine beauty solution in
the comfort of home," York-Goldman says.
-Does not enhance
wrinkles like traditional powders. "If you have fine lines or
crow's-feet, traditional makeup can cake in those places, often
creating an illusion of deeper lines," York-Goldman notes. "Minerals
create real health and a glow like we had in our teens and 20s through
essential vitamins, antioxidants and ingredients that actually hydrate
the skin and conceal wrinkles."
-Helps protect skin from
sun. The sun is said to be the number-one aging agent. Mineral makeup's
zinc oxide offers natural UVA-UVB protection. "I have 6 to 10 percent
zinc in much of the line, and many of our products offer an SPF of 20
and 30," Ranger points out. "Forty products are now rated [for
protection factor], and eventually 95 percent of the line could be
rated."
-Can be used after peels. Skin procedures such as
lasers and peels are common. "Minerals are the natural choice to calm
and soothe red, bruised, itchy, inflamed and flaking skin," Ranger
says. "This product hides imperfections, then camouflages with minerals
that actually block the sun, which is crucial after aggressive
treatments. In fact, after certain treatments, you shouldn't use
sunscreens. Minerals cool the skin and encourage faster healing," she
adds.
-You can sleep in it! "I can actually sleep with my
makeup on if I need to," York-Goldman points out. "If I have to be up
early, I apply it the night before. Plus, I know that if I work out or
have a long night, my mineral makeup, which lasts longer than
traditional makeup, is absolutely going to be there."
-Makes
skin look better. The old makeup phrase "putting on your face" may soon
be obsolete. "I love when people tell me my skin looks great, because
the makeup is obviously invisible," York-Goldman reflects. "It can look
and feel like you're wearing nothing at all, like a silky top layer of
your very own skin," Ranger adds.
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| Find the liner for your eyesBlue eyes: For your eyes it's best to use a navy or brown liner. If you really want to make your eyes stand out try a grey or charcoal liner.
Green eyes: For your eyes go with a light brown. Sounds plain, but it's deffinitly going to add drama.
Brown eyes: Try a dark brown or medium brown liner. In fact try all the shades inbetween! It'll look great on you!
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